Melbourne has a large Greek community, and has done since the wave of Greek immigration after the Second World War. Not unexpectedly, this has resulted in a large number of Greek restaurants cropping up in various locales--Lonsdale Street, Oakleigh, Swan Street, and so on. Philhellene is located right in the heart of Skip Town--Mt Alexander Road Moonee Ponds, but from that now-very-trendy location, John and Susie Rerakis dispense the best Greek food in Melbourne. Of course, this part of Melbourne is not without its own dining history. I wonder how many readers are old enough to remember the Chung On, Coconuts, or--even more obscurely--the legendary Chinese Hamburger Shop?
John and Susie are Greek restaurant icons in this city, having owned Piraeus Blues and Birdy Num Nums previously, but Philhellene is their flagship, and you get the impression that this is partly a labour of love (as well as being a very successful business).
Philhellene occupies a large, rustic, friendly, and welcoming space, and you are always warmly welcomed on arrival, often by John or Susie. The staff here are young, knowledgeable, and efficient, and there's plenty of them, so you're never waiting too long for service.
Philhellene's food is Greek provincial, and there is a strong Cretan influence in both food and wine. The wine list offers a range of wonderful Greek (often Cretan) reds and whites that are excellent value and complement the food perfectly. There's also a range of Greek beers.
A range of banquets are on offer here, and they're great; all of the dishes are carefully prepared, nicely presented, and wonderfully tasty. The lamb will melt in your mouth, and bread is fresh and warm, the saganaki perfectly fried (without the addition of sweet stuff, thank God), and the calamari as tender as you could imagine. A lot of classics turn up on the banquets, but they're often just that little bit better than what you would find at other places--the eggplant dip is a little smokier, the octopus just that little bit more tender than anywhere else.
But if you go beyond the banquets, you'll really get a chance to enjoy some of John and Susie's specialities. Look to the specials board and you might see vegan mousaka, broad beans with artichokes (one of the restaurant's signature dishes), and stuffed zucchini flowers. Philhellene prides itself on being seasonal, and there will always be dishes reflecting both what's fresh in the market and a current Greek holiday or festival; for example, over Greek Easter they feature a range of vegan dishes that would tempt even the most committed carnivore. Just make sure you include the char-grilled octopus, and the goat with potatoes and peas on any visit.
Desserts here are a mix of the traditional (Greek doughnuts) and the regional and aren't too overpoweringly sweet.
Phihellene offers good value for money. It's not cheap eats, but there's never any excuse to walk out of the place not feeling full.
I'd like to imagine that the food at Philhellene is what you might expect from a skilled and generous Cretan home chef. It really has that feel.
As I said, this is the best Greek restaurant in Melbourne. If you're looking for good value, generous, tasty, hearty regional Greek food, well-served in a warm setting, look no further.
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