This was one of the best, if not the best, meal of my life.
From start to finish it was a perfectly imagined, perfectly executed dinner that delivered on flavour, ingenuity, integrity and ultimate pleasure. I came here with a fellow foodie for no reason in particular, in full knowledge of the $400 price tag which, while it made me slightly uncomfortable ethically and financially, I was prepared to pay for this type of “once-in-a-lifetime” experience.
The adventure begins upon finding the restaurant. Walking in from the bustling CBD you encounter a driveway that winds its way towards a gorgeous Japanese-style house – the last thing you would expect to find on Kent Street! The dining room is elegant and spacious and features a full view of their beautifully-kept Japanese garden.
To start we ordered two cocktails, a dirty martini and the “cherry blossom” which were both excellent. We were then served the degustation with paired wines –
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i) PACIFIC OYSTERS W. GINGER, RICE VINEGAR
oysters fresh, vinaigrette luscious and enhanced the flavour of the oyster.
ii) ROASTED SCAMPI W. VANILLA & 16-SC PANNELL AROMATICO, ADELAIDE HILLS
fantastic sweetness in the scampi which was boosted up dramatically by the vanilla.
iii) KINGFISH W. PICKLED KOHLRABI, APPLE CUCUMBER & 11-TYRELL'S STEVENS SEMILLON, HUNTER V.
presented in a 'jellyfish' shape, pillowy and light with perfect balance of soy, natural sweetness, ginger.
iv) CONFIT OCEAN TROUT, SALAD CELERY, APPLE & 15-PARADIGM HILL ROSE SHIRAZ, MORNINGTON
one of the highlights. Fish sliced through like butter and was so rich but so clean in flavour. Kombu salt on the top gave it a kick of umami and salad cut through wonderfully. Rose Shiraz was fruity, spicy, rich.
v) BLUE COD W. WOMBOK, MUSSELS SABAYON & 12-PIERRO CHARDONNAY FOR TETSUYA'S MARGARET R.
crispy skin and buttery-soft flesh on the fish. Mussel sabayon was incredible. My favourite wine of the night, the chardonnay was intense, oaky and had a rich mouth feel that paired fantastically well.
vi) BUTTER POACHED QUAIL W. PARSNIP ROOT, SPROUTS & 14-CURLY FLAT PINOT NOIR, MACEDON RANGES
perfectly cooked quail that was buttery and delicious, parsnip root and sauce gave an overall sweetness that reminded me of KFC mash potato...in a good way! Pinot had cherry notes.
vii) WAGYU TENDERLOIN W. ASPARAGUS, ONION JUS & 13-WOODLANDS CABERNET, MARGARET R.
favourite savoury dish of the night with my favourite red of the night. Nothing to say other than "the steak of my dreams" it was utterly delicious, soft like butter but smoky and meaty at the same time. The cabernet was very full-bodied with herb and spice flavours, a wonderful pairing.
viii) ROCKMELON GRANITA W. ALMOND CURD, ROASTED SOBA ICE CREAM & 13-MICHEL ET MARIE BOTRYTIS SEMILLON, RIVERINA
it just got better and better. The combination of flavours was nothing short of genius, and the dish was also playful in terms of texture and temperature. Wine was one of the best dessert wines I've had - owing to its lack of sweetness, instead it was rather tart.
ix) TETSUYA'S CHOCOLATE CAKE & 13-CHALMERS SAGRANTINO APPASSIMENTO, HEATHCOTE
the best dish of the night. True, I have a chocolate bias but this cake was otherworldly. Constructed from four different valrhona chocolates that varied in consistency, intensity, colour and most importantly, savouriness, this was the ultimate chocolate cake, and somehow managed to not be overpoweringly rich. The wine, too, was incredible - similar to a berry-infused hot chocolate it was velvety with, intense, intense chocolate notes.
x) PETIT FOURS, ESPRESSO
I think by this point I was just drunk off the wine (which had accumulated to about 800mL worth). The cassis macaron didn't taste much like cassis though. The caramel petit four was fine, and coffee had smoky notes and was a very pleasant end to the meal.
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Although I probably would not come back to Tetsuya's (at least for another several years), I absolutely, 100% do not regret going once. My marginal utility was at its highest (as will yours be if you haven't gone yet!), and I was in it for the experience. The menu not only reflected creativity, technical skill, and a masterful understanding of flavour, but also Tetsuya's personal story - a cultural journey underpinned by a unique sense of Australian identity. I loved every minute. Special mention to our Slovakian waiter who was very very nice!
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