FOOD TYPE
European (this is Double Bay after all).
FOOD QUALITY
Five of us dined on a hot summer’s eve in late January. Prices are a bit steep and we didn’t have any vouchers or docket deals so we stuck to one drink and one main meal each. We started with the drinks, of course: A pina colada, a Coopers Pale Ale and a couple of refreshing fruit drinks – which come in quaint little jar-like glasses. Then we hit the mains! A trad beef goulash with dumplings for me, ($26), a lamb souvlaki ($25) for the wife, and two Aussie beef burgers with chips ($21 ea), and a salmon nicoise salad ($24) for our friends. My beef goulash was simply presented on a stylish blue plate with just the beef and mini dumplings; but what a flavoursome dish it was. The meat was melt-in-your-mouth tender and cooked with carrots and onions in a gentle tomato flavoured sauce. The soft, smooth dumplings were the perfect accompaniment. My wife’s lamb souvlaki had three generous skewers of succulent lamb with a side of salad, topped with a hefty piece of haloumi cheese and served with lashings of hot, pita bread, straight from the oven. The salmon salad and the burgers were solid dishes, and all fresh and tasty. Overall, outstanding food prepared with the best quality ingredients by an expert and skilled chef.
ATMOSPHERE
Cosmo is at the heart of the sophisticated Double Bay alfresco dining scene, so beloved of European émigrés because it reminds them of home. Here you can dine indoors or outdoors; but either way you’ll be pleasantly comfortable on a summer’s night. The indoors area is cool, spacious and airy with ample ceiling fans and the whole front part, wide-open to the street. Tables are well-spaced out and the interior décor is modern and elegant, with tiled floors, wicker chairs and wooden tables. It all works well to create that laid-back yet upmarket ambience that Double Bay is famous for.
SERVICE
As one would expect from a place that’s been an institution here for so long, service - from a team of professional wait staff, neatly attired in smart black uniforms - is business-like, polite and efficient.
COMFORT
As late arrivals without a booking, we ended up at a table at the back, but it was roomy enough with couch seating on one side and a large TV screen on the wall behind us, which I could have done without, but my wife loved because she got to watch the tennis. The two tables pushed together were large enough to fit all the dishes.
MENU
Well laid out and easy to read in the strong lighting. It doesn’t exactly match the one you’ll see online, and prices are slightly different too, so I guess updating their website is something these guys need to get onto to. There are also blackboard specials – just look out for them on the back wall: we didn’t notice it until it was too late, perhaps the waiter should have pointed that out.
TOILETS
As Cosmo Café is in the Cosmopolitan Shopping Centre, it’s the centre’s toilets that you’ll be using, but you won’t have far to walk because they’re just behind the restaurant. Being shopping centre toilets, they’re clean and well provisioned and there are ample cubicles, so there’s no waiting around. Only problem – at least in the gents – is that there are no hand towels, and the ancient 1980s hand dryer doesn’t work – and even if it did it would be pretty useless unless you had half an hour to stand there drying your hands. I often get a bit uncomfortable having to use toilets at night that are open to the public, but here in upmarket Double Bay, it’s perfectly safe.
ACOUSTICS
Even though the place was pretty full, we had no trouble in conversing. And that’s mainly due to the high ceilings and spaciousness, rather than any miracle of sound engineering. Also, the type of clientele that come here are generally quiet and well-behaved so you’re unlikely to encounter any rowdy or drunken groups of diners.
COST
We didn’t order any entrees, desserts or coffee so it was pretty much one drink and one main course per person and for five that came to $162 or $32 a head. I guess what one would expect to pay at such a long-standing and fine institution.
BOOKING
Recommended, especially for weekend dining.
PARKING/ACCESS
The Cosmopolitan Shopping Centre is in Knox Street on the corner of Bay Street. There’s plenty of easy parking in nearby Guilfoyle Av or Ocean Av or, if you’re lucky you could even find a spot on New South Head Road. There are some restrictions, mainly two hours, but not on a Sunday and in any event I doubt whether they are ever policed at night. You could also park at the new Woolworths Car Park which you can enter via Kiaora Road. Check it out, but one or two hours free is the norm there.
SUMMARY
I’m grateful to these guys for going out of their way to find a table for us on a busy Sun night when we didn’t have a booking (our first choice, the Sheaf across the road was way too noisy and hectic!). And we were more than happy with our choice. Relaxed yet sophisticated ambience, outstanding food, decent portion sizes and efficient service. Easy parking too and Double Bay is just a terrific, safe and accessible place to dine and visit. We’ll definitely be back.
RECOMMENDATION
Can’t go past the trad beef goulash with mini dumplings.
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